TY - JOUR
T1 - Sandy berm and beach-ridge formation in relation to extreme sea-levels
T2 - a Danish example in a micro-tidal environment
AU - Bendixen, Mette
AU - Clemmensen, Lars B
AU - Kroon, Aart
PY - 2013/10/1
Y1 - 2013/10/1
N2 - The formation of berms and their transformation into beach ridges in a micro-tidal environment is coupled to wave run-up and overtopping during extreme sea levels. A straight-forward comparison between extreme sea levels due to storm-surges and active berm levels is impossible in the semi-enclosed bays along the Baltic Sea. Quite often, the maximum water levels do not coincide with the maximum intensity of the wave driven processes because of seiches in the Baltic. In this paper, we look into the joined distribution of extreme water levels and high-energetic wave conditions at Feddet, a sandy prograding spit on the south-eastern Baltic shores of Zealand, Denmark. The modern, sandy beach at this location consists of a beachface with a shallow incipient berm, a mature berm, and a dune-covered beach ridge. It borders a beach-ridge plain to the west, where more than 20 N–S oriented beach ridges and swales are present. Measured water-level data from 1991 to 2012 and topographical observations, carried out during fair weather period and during a storm event, provided the basis for a conceptual model exhibiting berm formation and transformation into the local beach-ridge system. The character of extreme sea level events is identified using thirty-three well described extreme events throughout a period of 15 years. Analysis of the meteorological conditions during these events revealed that berm formation only occurred during 20% of all extreme events when onshore winds, high-energy wave action and elevated water coincided. These berm-forming events had a mean return period of once every three years. The average age between successive beach ridges on the beach-ridge plain was about 180 years, which means that the transformation of a berm into a single beach ridge is the result of a large number of storm episodes with high-energy waves and extreme water levels
AB - The formation of berms and their transformation into beach ridges in a micro-tidal environment is coupled to wave run-up and overtopping during extreme sea levels. A straight-forward comparison between extreme sea levels due to storm-surges and active berm levels is impossible in the semi-enclosed bays along the Baltic Sea. Quite often, the maximum water levels do not coincide with the maximum intensity of the wave driven processes because of seiches in the Baltic. In this paper, we look into the joined distribution of extreme water levels and high-energetic wave conditions at Feddet, a sandy prograding spit on the south-eastern Baltic shores of Zealand, Denmark. The modern, sandy beach at this location consists of a beachface with a shallow incipient berm, a mature berm, and a dune-covered beach ridge. It borders a beach-ridge plain to the west, where more than 20 N–S oriented beach ridges and swales are present. Measured water-level data from 1991 to 2012 and topographical observations, carried out during fair weather period and during a storm event, provided the basis for a conceptual model exhibiting berm formation and transformation into the local beach-ridge system. The character of extreme sea level events is identified using thirty-three well described extreme events throughout a period of 15 years. Analysis of the meteorological conditions during these events revealed that berm formation only occurred during 20% of all extreme events when onshore winds, high-energy wave action and elevated water coincided. These berm-forming events had a mean return period of once every three years. The average age between successive beach ridges on the beach-ridge plain was about 180 years, which means that the transformation of a berm into a single beach ridge is the result of a large number of storm episodes with high-energy waves and extreme water levels
U2 - 10.1016/j.margeo.2013.07.006
DO - 10.1016/j.margeo.2013.07.006
M3 - Journal article
SN - 0025-3227
VL - 344
SP - 53
EP - 64
JO - Marine Geology
JF - Marine Geology
ER -