Abstract
The formation of an inner nearshore bar was observed during a high-energy event at the sandy beach of Vejers, Denmark. The bar accreted in situ during surf zone conditions and the growth of the bar was associated with the development of a trough landward of the bar. Measurements of hydrodynamics and sediment fluxes were obtained from electromagnetic current meters and optical backscatter sensors. These process measurements showed that a divergence in sediment transport occurred at the location of the developing trough, and observed gradients in cross-shore net sediment flux were consistent with the morphological development. The main cause for the flux gradients were cross-shore gradients in offshore-directed mean current (undertow) speed which depended upon local relative wave height and local bed slope.
Original language | English |
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Journal | Earth Surface Processes and Landforms |
Volume | 33 |
Issue number | 7 |
Pages (from-to) | 1021-1032 |
ISSN | 0197-9337 |
DOIs | |
Publication status | Published - 2008 |
Keywords
- Faculty of Science
- nearshore bars
- surf zone
- morphodynamics
- undertow
- sediment transport